I'm writing this from the comfort of my own home, having gained a virus and lost most of my tan (in the bath)... Ah, good old blighty. It's that surreal stage of being back in body but not much else. Still...
So, I went from Mysore to Spangalore. This was actually one of the nicer Indian cities I've been to. Partly, I think, because the British legacy is positive in this case: its very spacious, wide streets, lots of greenery, relatively clean etc. Although, I didn't see much of the city and focused on the westernised area (because, in my understanding, its the unique part of bangalore), so I may not have a well-rounded impression. Here's a picture of the roundabout at the end of one of the main arterial roads, called "Anil Kumble circle" - which is a bit like marble arch being re-named "freddy flintoff arch." Although, maybe a couple of years ago that was on the cards... NOT NOW!
(You can see the F1-inspired traffic lights, with flashing countdown, at the top of the picture... i imagine they make the commute more fun).
Whilst in Bangalore, I finally tracked down a british newspaper (1st time in India after much searching), in the British library. It was the Observer, and it was a really nice surprise to find a review of Sufjan Stevens' Xmas album, written by none other than AP Carnwath esq.
Anyway, whilst I liked Bangalore, its not a great city to be alone in: one of its highlights is the nightlife, and its not the friendliest place so i missed out somewhat.
On to Hyderabad - capital of Andra Pradesh, and one of the most disappointing places I've seen so far! Mainly because I was expecting a relaxed, hassle-free city with lots of beautiful sights and friendly people, but found pretty much the opposite! Which is fine, and when I say I had expectations, I have learned that its not wise to expect too much! Here's a highway:
Then to Aurangabad, Maharashtra, to see some caves, from which I expected a great deal... And I wasn't disappointed. There are 2 major sets of cave temples: Ellora and Ajanta.
Went to Ellora first and was blown away by this Hindu temple, cut from the hill in the 8th century! Its mind-blowing to think how they produced something so intricate and so massive by chipping away at a rock. Ellora has lots of other Hindu, a few Jain, and 12 Buddhist temples, but this was definitely the highlight.
Ajanta was very different: Only Buddhist, older than Ellora (earliest caves from 200BC), and better preserved (mainly because it was only discovered in the 19th century).
Its so well-preserved that many of the original wall-paintings are still in tact, so its easier to imagine how things would have been back in the day...
Anyway, that was great. I then took my 4th night train of the week, back to Mumbai. Last time I was here was very brief, so I was glad to see a bit more of the city this time.
Its a great city, but is probably the place I've been where the contrast between India's wealth and poverty is most starkly obvious. For example, my hotel was next to the Taj Palace (one of India's premier hotels, where a drink will cost you about 10 times as much as an average meal). Yet across the road is a brothel, and lots of women and children live on the pavement. Of course the wealthier / more touristy areas attract more beggars, but its still shocking to see such poverty on your doorstep. You become hardened to it, but sometimes a scene can be very poignant. One of the most frequently discussed topics in amongst backpackers seems to be policies on giving money to beggars. Its a bit of a minefield and I really can't be bothered to rant about it now, but I reserve the right to do so!
So, that was India. Its nice to have a break, but I'm really looking forward to going back (3rd of Jan)!
Happy Xmas, here's a Bombay sunset:
